Style.com - Fashion Feed
After a month of shows, it takes something pretty exceptional to lure the exhausted fashion pack out at night. Fortunately, the dinner that André Saraiva hosted alongside Guillaume Houzé at Caviar Kaspia had a few things going for it: the restaurant's famous baked potato with caviar, Saraiva's notoriously hard-to-resist charm, and—above all—the chance to meet a genuine legend. That would be Jean-Paul Goude, the groundbreaking photographer who collaborated with Saraiva on the latest issue of the latter's magazine, L'Officiel Hommes. Throw in a crowd that included Olympia Le-Tan, Victoire de Castellane, and Lindsey Wixson, her hair still in cornrows from a shoot earlier in the day, and guests ending up staying until late—even though they all had to be up bright and early the next morning for Nicolas Ghesquière's debut at Louis Vuitton.
It was hard to say what the biggest attraction was at the Paris dinner Farfetch's José Neves hosted to welcome Deena Aljuhani Abdulaziz and her D'NA boutiques to his digital shopping platform. There was the location—a grand private residence on the historic Place des Vosges, complete with artwork by Gilbert & George and a mirrored ceiling that made the already double-height room stretch to the heavens. There was the fashion insider crowd that included contingents of designers from the U.K. (Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos, Roksanda Ilincic, Mary Katrantzou) and the U.S. (Prabal Gurung, Creatures of the Wind's Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters). And most of all, perhaps, there was the guest of honor herself, a whirlwind of energy in an intricately embroidered dress and matching cape straight off Katrantzou's Fall runway. "Look," said Abdulaziz, pointing to the exercise-monitoring Up band that nestled on her wrist among half a dozen more expensive trinkets. "I've done 8,000 steps today." And that was before the dancing part of the evening began.
"We chose the Rex Club to celebrate the collection because it's fun and industrial and it sort of extends the theme we've been working on. Also because my Paris friends told me no one's really come here in, like, fifteen years," said Humberto Leon of his and Carol Lim's choice of the underground boîte as Kenzo's after-party spot. If Leon's sources were right, then last night would have marked a first for just about everyone in the place, save perhaps a few local insiders like André Saraiva, Olympia Le-Tan, and a stylist or two. The deeply hip, young crowd included Jessica Alba, Henry Holland, Julia Restoin Roitfeld, Dion Lee, Mademoiselle Yulia, and Monique Péan.
Jungle headlined a musical lineup that also featured chart-topping U.K. import Katy B. "I was supposed to be on vacation now, but I couldn't say no to Kenzo," she told a packed house before launching into her set. Leigh Lezark and Geordon Nicol of The Misshapes, Opening Ceremony friends from back in the early days, were also on hand to celebrate. "They have just totally reinvented Kenzo in the best way possible. More than any other New Yorkers, Humberto and Carol just know how to tap into youth. They are their own creative hub," said Nicol. Added Lezark, "They just love to be at work, plus they're really having fun. There's no fancy thing, they just want people to let their hair down—and that's what this week needs!"
Let's just get it out of the way: Jennifer Lawrence, America's sassy gal pal and best-supporting-actress nominee, fell at the Oscars. Again. This time, it was a cone on the red carpet that tripped her up. "If you win tonight, I think we should bring you the Oscar. Can we do that?" teased the awards' Saint Laurent-clad host, Ellen DeGeneres, in her opening monologue (side note: She's apparently on a first-name basis with Hedi Slimane). Per usual, Lawrence laughed it off with panache—something we'd imagine is easy to do when you're dressed in a red-hot Dior gown.
But Lawrence's tumble wasn't the only repeat showing. Pharrell Williams continued his spectacular sartorial antics, donning a Lanvin tux with tailored shorts on the red carpet, and a black version of his infamous Vivienne Westwood hat during a performance of his song for Despicable Me 2, "Happy."
Yet again, 12 Years a Slave's Lupita Nyong'o wowed in a diamond headband and custom Prada gown. She seemed a modern-day Cinderella while giving her tearful best-supporting-actress acceptance speech. The deep-V frock's sparkling, pleated skirt was inspired by champagne, while its serene blue hue was a nod to her native Nairobi, Kenya. "I feel very at home in this gown," she said. It was a big evening for the entire 12 Years a Slave camp: The film took the Best Picture prize—but from the moment she stepped onto the red carpet, it was plain to see that tonight was Nyong'o's night.
Speaking of Nyong'o, Jared Leto, who won best supporting actor for his performance in Dallas Buyers Club, endeavored to quash those rumors that he and the starlet are an item. How? By announcing that he was having a fling with 84-year-old Nebraska actress June Squibb. "We are indeed dating," he quipped. Leto, whose actual date was his mother, Constance, channeled old Hollywood in a slick white Saint Laurent tux. His costar and best-actor winner, Matthew McConaughey, also went white in Dolce & Gabbana.
Save Liza Minnelli, who turned up in a cobalt silk pajama ensemble and matching azure-streaked hair, Hollywood's leading ladies didn't take a lot of (or any, really) risks this year. However, that's not to say they didn't look lovely. Countless shades of blue (Amy Adams was in navy Gucci), mermaid gowns (like the radiant Kate Hudson's Atelier Versace number), peplums (Julia Roberts' black lace Givenchy gown had one), and sleek silhouettes were trending, as were embellished white or metallic frocks. Best-actress winner Cate Blanchett shimmered in one by Armani Privé. Her Blue Jasmine costar Sally Hawkins chose Valentino's take on the style, and Naomi Watts worked an iteration from Calvin Klein.
Sometimes, though, as Charlize Theron proved, black is best. She was simply stunning in Dior. Also in black? Anne Hathaway. The actress wore a Gucci number with a strategic smattering of jewels across the chest. Clearly, after last year's revealing pink Prada, she wasn't chancing any déjà vu.
—Katharine K. Zarrella
Porter magazine's third—and biggest—launch party of the season, in Paris this time, took place at the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild, the neo-Louis XVI hôtel particulier that was once the home of Adèle de Rothschild. And to underscore its hominess, Natalie Massenet and the Porter team brought in an interior decor complete with two Irish wolfhounds lazing in the foyer and posh wheels parked in the courtyard. As anyone tracking Instagram feeds will have seen by now, several bold-faced personalities were having a blast splaying themselves across the hoods of those cars, even before they lifted their first glass of champagne.
And the bubbly flowed amply as Massenet and Porter editor-in-chief Lucy Yeomans welcomed a host of friends and family—a fashion elite composed of designers, photographers, models, artists, actresses, and "everyone who inspires us," as Massenet put it.
One talking point among those present, including Isabel Marant, Peter Dundas, Anthony Vaccarello, Edie Campbell, Izabel Goulart, Phillip Lim, Richard Chai, Olivier Theyskens, Charlotte Dellal, and Kristin Scott Thomas, was the new book, of course, but also how Massenet has already changed their lives with Net-a-Porter. "I have three kids. If I shop anywhere, it's online," said Dellal. Goulart concurred: "I just don't have time for anything else." Commented Yeomans: "Porter will always be two steps ahead, but it's like a best friend. You don't tell your best friend, 'You have to be a goth virgin.' You tell her what she needs to know." Added Massenet, "And the day she wants to download her shopping in a microwave oven, we'll be there. Thirty seconds—ding!"
"Lots of magazines out there talk to women who are using their husband's credit cards," observed Caroline de Maigret, who was featured in the first issue. "To me, Porter is talking to the ones who wield their own." Speaking of owning, Hurricane RiRi touched down sometime after 1 a.m.—and judging by early morning's un-Instagrammed faces, this party was one for the record books.
Despite a still-soggy forecast, it was a bright night at the annual Charles Finch and Chanel pre-Oscars dinner at Madeo. Rosie Huntington-Whiteley arrived early with stylist Cher Coulter, while Sienna Miller, Anne Hathaway, André Balazs, Crystal Renn, and Naomie Harris mixed with the crowd of starlets, socials, and dealmakers. Alice Eve joked on her way in that she was just there for the Italian dinner, while Caroline Sieber gave up Paris fashion week to attend the weekend's festivities. "It's an exciting change of pace," Sieber said of her last-minute trip to Tinseltown.
As Poppy Delevingne talked animatedly with Rachel Zoe at the bar, a crowd including Julie Delpy, Oliver Stone, and Helena Christensen packed into the space. Greta Gerwig, though lamenting the weekend's many costume changes, was excited to be wearing Chanel for the very first time. "Chanel always seems like the most iconic to me," she said, before showing pictures of her Narcisco Rodriguez Oscars dress to Emilia Clarke. Clarke had her own take on the awards show circuit. "I'm getting used to it," she said. "But I take that back. No, you're never going to get used to it."
Talk about meet cute. It just so happens that two icons—one by way of Tokyo, the other L.A.—are celebrating big birthdays this year: Hello Kitty is 40; Playboy is 60. An unconventional pairing, to be sure, but with a little of Colette's magic in the mix, the couple has become an instant hit. Last night, matchmaker Sarah Andelman welcomed Yuko Yamaguchi (one of the cartoon's original designers, accompanied by Miss Kitty in person), Playboy brass, and a host of fashion folks to the Crazy Horse to fete the new couple with a dual birthday bash, complete with PG-rated dance numbers. "People thought I was crazy," said Andelman, "but now everyone agrees they look amazing together." The fused logos—Hello Kitty with bunny ears, and the famous rabbit sporting Hello Kitty's hair ribbon—are now appearing on more than a dozen or so limited-edition products, available only at Colette. Among them are a Charvet bow tie, boxers, and a Leica camera, as well as a Caron powder puff and lollipops; there will even be a cameo in the pages of Hef's famed title.
Through her translator, Yamaguchi said she found the show and bash "exciting and lively" and dubbed Hello Kitty's new iteration "really sexy cool." Designer Julien David, who splits his time between Paris and Tokyo, said, "Hello Kitty is a mega-star in Tokyo; she's everywhere—I think they make a good match because they're ageless." Carven designer Guillaume Henry had a slightly different take: "I believe that opposites attract. They're both icons, but they have nothing in common. I'm always more intrigued by a couple's differences than similarities, so I love the whole idea of sexy kawaii."
Despite a heavy downpour, the stars aligned last night as Roberta Armani toasted Italy's cinematic achievements and the Academy Award nominations of two heavyweights. The cocktail party stood out on the weekend's social calendar, honoring Martin Scorsese's best director nod for The Wolf of Wall Street and Italy's own Paolo Sorrentino, whose film The Great Beauty is up for best foreign language film on Sunday. Attention turned to Scorsese as he entered the Rodeo Drive flagship, greeting well-wishers including New York transplants Fran Lebowitz and Graydon Carter. Cate Blanchett elicited quite the stir as she made her way inside, radiant in an Armani Privé jumpsuit. "I've been doing primarily theater for the last six years, so I've had a hiatus from film," Blanchett, the face of Armani's Sì campaign, said. "So it's an extraordinary and once again unexpected way to come back into the arena—I'm shocked and surprised and delighted." She's up for best actress for her buzzed-about role in Blue Jasmine.
Among a crowd that included Robert De Niro, Patricia Clarkson, Emmy Rossum, and Mamie Gummer, Samuel L. Jackson discussed his imminent trip to London to begin filming Avengers: Age of Ultron. As Glenn Close made her way to greet Scorsese, Jamie Foxx had him doubled over in laughter before his daughter asked the director to pose for a selfie. But it being Oscars weekend, talk casually veered from film to fashion. Olivia Munn remained coy about her pick for the Vanity Fair party: "It's the first dress I tried on, and it's a special dress because of the history and the story that goes with it," she said of her decision. "If everyone around me that knows fashion is happy, then I'm happy."
When the sumptuous, Barneys-sponsored Dries Van Noten: Inspirations previewed at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs last night, fellow countryman Cédric Charlier was one of the first through the door. "I've been an admirer since the beginning, so I'm thrilled to see such a commemoration of Dries' work," he said. "He's a model for me, for his independence above all, but also his longevity and his creative force." Guests Thursday night, including Rick Owens, Michelle Lamy, Phillip Lim, and Maria Cornejo, lingered over a collection contextualized by other fashion icons (an embroidered jacket by Schiaparelli, a Bar jacket and skirt by Christian Dior), as well as film excerpts (The Piano, A Clockwork Orange) and a number of art masterpieces. Van Noten reckoned that the 400-odd pieces on show represent perhaps 5 percent of his archive. "From the moment that I could afford to keep things, I did. It was great to dive into all those bags and see what was there and talk about it. [The show] really tells a story."
Things got crazy on several levels over at the jam-packed Balmain after-party at the famed Crazy Horse cabaret. There was a private show by the dancers; a host of models from the Balmain show; and, above all, the real reason for the shoving, yelling, smashed glasses, chair climbing, and general hysteria: Rihanna. To her tremendous credit, the star kept her cool, smiling sweetly and posing (in a much-murmured-about mesh top) with Balmain designer Olivier Rousteing. "She is the most amazing woman ever in the world, I love her, she's so humble and so talented," the designer shouted over the din. "She's not just an inspiration to me, she's an inspiration to my whole generation and many to come." Asked whether she liked the show, whose high-kicking, writhing dance numbers ranged from pole dancing and rope acrobatics to a rousing rendition of "Champagne Taste," Rihanna exclaimed simply, "I fucking loved it!" Squeezed into the VIP banquettes alongside Joan Smalls, Rosie Huntington-Whitely, Jessica Alba, Angela Lindvall, and Anja Rubik, Karlie Kloss said, "I took ballet for many years; I've been up on that stage. I can totally understand the strength and discipline it takes to do that. I have real respect for those women." Added Lindvall, "I've just started doing aerial yoga. [This show] gave me a million ideas. Those girls really own it."
The last time H&M came to Paris, the Swedish fast-fashion chain was feting its capsule collaboration with Isabel Marant. Under a giant disco ball. Last night, the reason for all the champagne was the Fall collection of its own house label. Jessica Alba, Solange Knowles, and Miranda Kerr posed for the paparazzi in the front row, and French pop star Cécile Cassel (the half-sister of actor Vincent Cassel) performed onstage. H&M doesn't do anything small. On the catwalk, Joan Smalls, Mariacarla Boscono, Anna Ewers, and the gang wore big smiles and clothes that tapped into the season's key trends: oversize tailoring and wispy, lingerie-inspired slips; shearling outerwear (the shearling is faux, but the suede and leather are real); chunky sweaters; and even glittery sports jersey minidresses à la Tom Ford via Geoffrey Beene.
"We're always thinking about the girl who wants to look cool and effortless," said Ann-Sofie Johansson, the head of design, new development. It didn't go unnoticed by Jourdan Dunn, who sat out this show to watch from the front row with the other bold-facers. "I really liked the shearling that Nadja Bender was wearing and the white piece that Lindsey Wixson had on," she said. "There's a lot of wearable stuff. That's the thing about H&M, it's very wearable." From a pro like Dunn, that's high praise.
On the Avenue Montaigne, the panel of forty fashion authorities (including Style.com's Tim Blanks) tasked with whittling down the LVMH Prize short list gathered alongside nominees' friends and fans to take a closer look at the fledgling talents. Even Karl Lagerfeld and Kanye West turned out to peruse. Some designers were relatively known, such as Simone Rocha and Simon Porte Jacquemus, but most were not. "I was very impressed by the diversity of applicants," remarked Delphine Arnault after her walk-through. "It's really exciting to meet them. These are the stars of tomorrow." Jean-Jacques Picart reckoned that he reviewed close to six hundred of the 1,221 submissions. "It's very interesting, and so moving—you sort of get addicted," he said. Offered Pat McGrath, "The quality of their work is incredible; it will be almost impossible to choose. But I've got to go home and get my brain together first!"
A few blocks up the Seine, at Monsieur Bleu, Vionnet owner Goga Ashkenazi and Olivier Zahm welcomed an eclectic bunch, including Anthony Vaccarello, Angela Lindvall, Farida Khelfa, André Saraiva, Catherine Baba, and Sarah Andelman, for a buzzy, loud, and decidedly Purple party that rocked over to Le Baron sometime after midnight, only to pick up even more steam. Emerging at the scene, Lindvall offered, "That's the thing about Purple parties: They mean endless nights!"
Meanwhile, on the Left Bank, things were taking a turn for the nostalgic. "It was definitely a trip down memory lane," said Lazaro Hernandez. "Oh, yeah, I mean, our collections are so autobiographical," added Jack McCollough. Hernandez again: "It's like, 'That's the idea we came up with that day on the road trip—'" "Or, 'Wow, remember that time we got in that fight…'" So concluded McCollough, as he and Hernandez talked about the process of putting together their new exhibition at Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche. The exhibition, which opened Wednesday evening with a cocktail soiree and a concert by Ariel Pink, features about eighty looks culled from more than ten years' worth of Proenza Schouler collections. And according to McCollough and Hernandez, it amounts to a very appropriate introduction to the French consumer.
"What's amazing is that Bon Marché is such a Paris institution," Hernandez noted, as guests such as Arizona Muse, Humberto Leon, and Victoria Traina milled around, studying looks. "And so this exhibit, it's not just for the French fashion people, it's for all the Parisians who shop here." Indeed, the store offered the Proenza boys prime real estate on the ground floor for the show, which includes not only clothes but a short film about Hernandez and McCollough and their creative process, and a video cube flashing up old show footage and collection prints. There is also a pop-up shop, with PS1s in exclusive colors and other Proenza goodies.
"I think the main thing we learned from this whole process was, we're more consistent than we give ourselves credit for," McCollough posited. "Yeah, we tend to feel kind of bipolar going from one show to the next," Hernandez added, "because the ideas are always so different." "But," inserted McCollough, in that familiar, dynamic Proenza Schouler duo way, "going back through everything, we were like, 'Oh, hey, we actually have a thing here, don't we?'"
—Tina Isaac-Goizé and Maya Singer
The Oscar ceremony may not take place until Sunday, but the celebrations have officially begun in Tinseltown. Bulgari, along with host Naomi Watts, celebrated red-carpet style across the ages last night at the Soho House. The brand brought together a bevy of starlets, including Olivia Munn, Emmy Rossum, and Dianna Agron, to pay homage to Hollywood glamour. Among a crowd that included Ashley Greene and Erin Wasson, guests eyed the oversize images lining the perimeter of the garden terrace, featuring celebrated actresses adorned in Bulgari bijoux. But not all thought was just about baubles—the impending red carpet was top of mind, too. "I hope there are bold choices that are made, because it's been a bit bland," Camilla Belle said. "I hope someone comes up with something very exciting, colorful, and fashion forward."
Representing one of this weekend's biggest contenders were American Hustle's Elisabeth Röhm and Jeremy Renner, who came to fete 130 years of Bulgari and settled into a back corner alongside Kate Hudson. Photographed amid the vitrines of archival and heritage gems, Watts, wearing a brilliant choker by the brand, reflected on the jewelry's timeless quality: "They're bold, dramatic, but not over the top. They've been around for such a long time, and yet their older stuff still stands up today," she said, admiring a picture of friend Nicole Kidman's own Bulgari moment overhead. But as an attendee of Sunday night's main event, Watts admitted she's yet to decide on a dress. "It's so hard to choose jewelry before the dress because that's obviously such a big part of it," she confessed. "If the dress doesn't look good, then the necklace doesn't get the right moment."
Eric Goode has a knack for bringing people together. First, it was with his iconic eighties New York nightclub, Area, and again last night, when many of those Area veterans gathered for a fundraiser at The Bowery Hotel for Goode's Turtle Conservancy in Ojai, California. Drawing together a crowd of friends from the eighties inevitably means one thing: nostalgia. "We probably met at Area, but my sober memory with Eric doesn't really start until the nineties, when we used to play basketball on the streets," said Fisher Stevens, who accepted an award for his support of the Conservancy. "It wasn't until recently that our relationship became about saving animals." Turns out, saving animals is a cause that can get a lot of people together: Peter Beard, Harvey Keitel, Scout LaRue Willis, Padma Lakshmi, and Stella Schnabel all came out to support the initiative.
An eighties photograph of Madonna taken by her then-stylist Maripol was a crowd favorite at the silent auction, as was an embellished turtle shell by Julian Schnabel (also in attendance). Wait, turtle shell? One guest took a double take: "I hope that thing died of natural causes! We're at a turtle fundraiser!" The origins of the shell weren't clear, but no matter: It ended up going for $40,000 at auction.
All jokes aside, as Goode explained, turtles are the most threatened group of animals on the planet. In addition, honeybees are mysteriously disappearing, as are crucial oxygen-producing plankton. Said Goode: "There have been five big extinctions on Earth; the last one was the dinosaurs. This extinction is the sixth, and unfortunately it's because of humans. But that also means that we hold the keys to the future." Stevens added: "And we have to do something. When the ecosystem falls apart, we fall apart." Club kids have to grow up at some point, right?
Via Montenapoleone was thronged with Milanese last night hoping for a sight of Roberto Cavalli. When he finally arrived at his new flagship—at 16,200 square feet and five floors, it's the biggest RC store in the world—they erupted in cheers. But if the street outside was jammed, inside the boutique was even more packed. Guards did their best to direct traffic up and down the mother-of-pearl-inlaid staircases, but they were no match for the crowds.
Later, at Il Salumaio, where Cavalli and wife Eva hosted dinner, a much smaller crowd that included Samantha Barks, Isabeli Fontana, and Franca Sozzani gathered to toast the designer. Cavalli had caused a bit of a stir with the ring of fire at his show earlier in the day, but the only hint of smoke-related controversy at the dinner came from the one or two guests sneaking a cigarette.
—Nicole Phelps and Dirk Standen