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Glenn O'Brien's latest creative endeavor, the "post-Christian" book Penance, was the cause célèbre at The Standard Spa's Alldayeveryday Newsstand in Miami on Friday. "I was raised Catholic and was forced to go to confession when I was completely guiltless," explained O'Brien of the origins of the project, "so it always made a big impression on me." The book represents a transcription of the "all-true confessions [that were] told to me [when I received confessions] at the Chelsea Hotel last year. I figured: If they can do it, I can do it; if they can forgive people, I can forgive people." André Balazs, André Saraiva, and Johan Lindeberg stopped by to get a first read—and to confess themselves. "I have some sins to confess from last night," revealed a partygoer who preferred to remain anonymous. "It's been a very naughty week." Art Basel brings that out in people.
Later, Ryan McGinley and the Art Production Fund's Yvonne Force Villareal and Casey Fremont Crowe helped Francisco Costa toast the arrival of his Resort collection for Calvin Klein at The Webster. "It's fantastic for this city," Costa said of the special pieces he designed for the store. "It's light, it's colorful, it's fun, and it has the spirit of Miami itself—the bright reds and blues." Alessandra Ambrosio, Theophilus London, and Desiree Rogers were in the mix, but there was a distinct sense of the week (finally) winding down. Not, however, for a recently arrived Leandra Medine. "Hit it and quit it," she said. "That's my strategy."
—Ashley Simpson and Nick Remsen
"London is so full of energy and ideas," Isabel Marant said yesterday at her new Mayfair shop. "I honestly feel, when I go back to Paris, it's like walking into an old country—almost a museum, comparatively. This city is alive, and to get our shop here, well, it's a long, complicated story, but it was three years in the making."
Marant hit London yesterday for a belated opening party—her boutique on Bruton Street (taking pride of place next to Stella McCartney and Matthew Williamson) actually opened in September, but she has been a little busy since, what with that little collaboration at H&M, never mind her own collections. The celebratory dinner, held at the West End's architecturally spectacular Welsh Presbyterian Chapel (formerly the Limelight club and set to rise again soon as a performing-arts venue), was attended by Marant flag bearers such as Natalie Massenet, Jade Jagger, Jacquetta Wheeler, Arizona Muse, Lady Mary Charteris, and Nicholas Kirkwood. Invariably, as guests sat down, conversation turned to everyone's personal sob story of how they couldn't get past the H&M home page last month to buy any of Marant's items, or how much they were willing to pay for the items on eBay. (By the way, the answer is: quite a lot.)
Would Marant consider another partnership? "I have the whole planet calling me for collaboration, but it is not something I am willing to do every day. I am focused now on our new shop, which is opening up in Thailand, and being a bit lazy—but only in my fantasy world, because I never have time to relax."
The Standard Spa and Hotel in Miami Beach has long been an Art Basel pit stop—actually, more like an oasis. Judging by last night's duo of dinners celebrating André Saraiva and Jean Pigozzi's Artist of the Day poster series and Spike Jonze's new movie, Her, it's still the see-and-be-seen spot on the weeklong circuit.
Riffing on his Dream Concerts Art Series, an edition of screens featuring fantasy musical lineups, Saraiva tapped Jean Pigozzi to photograph the artists Maurizio Cattelan, Damien Hirst, and Takashi Murakami, turned the images into posters, and plastered "thousands" of them around South Beach. "It's a bit like, you know, every day has a saint," Saraiva told Style.com amid a crowd that included Lily Cole and Scout Willis. "But then also, you see these posters when there's a reward out for someone, when you're looking to put them in jail."
Across the deck, Jonze's dinner drew the likes of Ryan McGinley, Jeffrey Deitch, and Scott Campbell. A comedy about a man who falls in love with artificial intelligence (think of Siri, except a million times more communicative and advanced), Her opens on December 18, but earlier in the evening, Warner Bros. and Annapurna Pictures hosted a special screening down the block, on Lincoln Road. "It's crazy how fast you get emotionally involved with the movie," one guest noted.
Meanwhile, at the Soho Beach House, artists, their supporters, and more than a few Valentino Resort 2014-sporting party girls (Harley Viera-Newton and Atlanta de Cadenet Taylor included) gathered to celebrate Artsy's initiative with the CalArts. "The event was started primarily for our gallery partners, for believing in the long-term potential of Artsy," said founding partner Sebastian Cwilich, as revelers sipped champagne, feet in the sand. "But personally," added cofounder Carter Cleveland, "I'm very excited about the idea of raising money for students to have more resources in college." Even as Artsy grows, Cleveland pointed out, "we're still a start-up; it's seven of us staying in one hotel room—and it's so fun. College is where I started Artsy, so our new initiative with CalArts really brings me back to that."
—Nick Remsen and Ashley Simpson
Stop one on last night's Art Basel Miami Beach tour: Eddie Borgo's get-together at The Webster, celebrating the launch of his capsule collection with Laure Heriard Dubreuil. "We were here earlier to set up, and we were selling the pieces as we put them out," said Borgo (modestly, mind you).
A few blocks north, at the Raleigh Hotel, Louis Vuitton's Michael Burke and Craig Robins—the man behind Miami's Design District revitalization—hosted a cocktail party and dinner to fete the late architect and designer Charlotte Perriand's "La maison au bord de l'eau." A little background here: Perriand was a prodigious (though perhaps underrated) tour de force in her field, working closely alongside the famed Le Corbusier and becoming an early champion of modular living. In 1934, she entered a contest to conceptualize an economically feasible and easily maintained beach bungalow, in which she took second place. The result? Prefab-fab, an airy and considered space that some speculated might "go well in Amagansett." Perriand's original rendering for "La maison" had never before been executed. Until now. "I was drawn to her pieces before I became familiar with Charlotte herself," said Michelle Williams. "She approached design from the inside out. When I heard that, I thought it sounded just like acting—living from the inside out."
Earlier, amid the warm glow of The Standard Spa's pool, Spike Jonze and Diana Widmaier Picasso gathered artist and curator pals to toast MoMa PS1 director Klaus Biesenbach. "I'm doing an Instagram movie with Korakrit Arunanondchai, who is a great young artist," said Biesenbach of his Basel plans.
Across town, at the Soho Beach House, Nadja Swarovski celebrated Swarovski's design initiative with Guilherme Torres. "This is now the sixth Crystal Palace installation that we have here with Design Miami," she said. "But this time, we really tried to take it one step forward and connect with our efforts with the environment, with our efforts with water in South America—and we thought it would be fantastic to work with a South American talent."
The night ended at Silencio, a pop-up club in a very well-hidden industrial space in the Design District. Pharrell Williams showed up just before 1 a.m., for a performance with Takashi Murakami. The two danced around the jam-packed, neon-lit space, running though Williams' summer hits with a conga line of furry Murakami giants and dancing party guests (Damien Hirst, Shepard Fairey, and Kenny Scharf included) in tow. "You know we gotta do one more lap!" Williams exclaimed after "Happy," moving into "Blurred Lines" to a now-roaring crowd. If that's not a Basel moment, we don't know what is.
—Nick Remsen and Ashley Simpson
"Visionaire's done a million parties, but we've actually never done a party where it's quiet!" said Visionaire cofounder James Kaliardos from outside the stained-glass cube where the pub hosted its first Art Basel Miami Beach bash with the National YoungArts Foundation. Last night's event marked the premiere of Matthu Placek's all-immersive, five-minute, 3-D film, A Portrait of Marina Abramovic. Guests—including Rafael de Cárdenas, Jeremy Kost, and, for a brief moment, Abramovic herself—sipped rum cocktails before entering the massive, completely empty structure lit from the outside in ("So it will look like the sun is coming into it at night," said Cecilia Dean). Once inside, they watched a clip in which Abramovic emerges from within her new estate in upstate New York, nude and staring directly at the audience. "Marina had this vision, and we pulled it all together," said Kaliardos. "And I did the makeup for the film; she told me, 'You made Botticelli!' "
Down the road a bit, Interview and Porsche Design got together to celebrate a new capsule collection from the French pop artist Thierry Noir. "Thirty years ago, I started to paint the Berlin Wall in Kreuzberg," Noir recalled. "Those characters have become the symbol of freedom: You can see them all over the world—in New York, in Los Angeles, in Yokohama. And now, in Miami." Noir was talking about the now-ubiquitous hearts he scrawled on the Wall so many years ago—and, for Porsche last night, painted on two hundred limited-edition handbags that were strung into a large-scale heart installation. The party also featured a special performance by Zoë Kravitz's new band, Lolawolf, not to mention quite a few vodka cocktails.
Slightly later, in the Design District, Berluti threw a party of its own. "The brand is about knowing the rules but also changing the rules," said head designer Alessandro Sartori from his seat at the opulent dinner. And bend the rules they did, serving fresh stone crab (bibs included) and some very rich spiced lamb to a crowd that included Kris Van Assche, Daria Strokous, Delfina Delettrez Fendi, and her mother, Silvia Venturini Fendi. The guest of honor? Dutch design wunderkind Maarten Baas, who created four pieces for Berluti's Miami outpost. "They have a more traditional way of working, whereas I have a more avant-garde way," explained Baas of the collaboration. "And I like exactly how those two meet with each other—how I can emphasize the refreshing spark that Berluti has within itself. That's, for me, the challenge."
Kate Moss. She's a woman of many pictures but few words. After her good friend Marc Jacobs gave her an extravagant and heartfelt introduction before she was honored with a special recognition award at the British Fashion Council's ceremony last night, Moss kept it short and sweet: "Thanks to all the people who have booked me over the years. I am really grateful," she said, and then she was off.
That was just one gong throughout a night in which the presenters nearly outshone the presentees with their star power. Gwyneth Paltrow, Donatella Versace, Sienna Miller, Clémence Poésy, Samantha Cameron, and Suki Waterhouse all handed out trophies. On the receiving end were the likes of Christopher Kane, Erdem Moralioglu, Christopher Bailey, J.W. Anderson, Simone Rocha, and Sophia Webster. But perhaps the most poignant moment came when Jefferson Hack introduced special recognition award winner Suzy Menkes with a little-known story of how her career began when she crashed a Karl Lagerfeld for Chloé show and got in the only way she knew how: dressed up as a cleaning lady. When the first model hit the catwalk, Menkes jettisoned her mop and bucket to take a seat, and the rest is fashion history. A humble and articulate Menkes mesmerized the crowd with her tales, then gently scolded the industry for the freebie culture before acknowledging "these are tough times for fashion."
Maybe so, but it certainly didn't seem that way at the bacchanalian party over at the Playboy Club for the mag's 60th-anniversary cover girl, Ms. Moss. Rita Ora, Bob Geldof, Yasmin Le Bon, Harry Styles, and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, not to mention virtually all of London's designers, turned up to raise a glass to Moss, whose anniversary cover wallpapered the room. Jacobs, who played host, told Style.com: "She is a genuine icon, and I don't throw that word around a lot—believe me. It's not just fashion history where she will be remembered, but history, full stop."
A cocktail event at the new Kirna Zabete store in Soho kicked off a busy Monday night of parties. Well, not quite new: Kirna Zabete cofounders Beth Buccini and Sarah Easley had a soft opening with friends and family in July, but they opted to wait for party season to throw a big bash. Said Easley, the arrival of Dior's 2014 Cruise collection was an occasion worth celebrating. Her first job in New York was at the label, translating wholesale documents from English to French. "Even today, Dior is a favorite."
The evening's second stop was DVF's Meatpacking District boutique, where von Furstenberg toasted her collaboration with Harley Viera-Newton: a bag and headphones inspired by Marmite, the deejay's black-cat-turned-Instagram-style-icon. A bevy of Viera-Newton's friends turned out, but the guest of honor was nowhere in sight. "Marmite couldn't make it. She was being such a diva," Viera-Newton told Style.com. "Believe me, I tried!"
After the DVF get-together, many revelers hopped a block down Washington Street to the Warby Parker store, where the eyewear brand celebrated its own collaboration with stylist Leith Clark.
The capsule collection is Clark's first major project since departing niche title Lula this fall, and the stylist said, "I just started to feel comfortable, and I prefer to feel a little crazy. I like to be challenged, so this sounded great to me." A portion of all sales from the partnership go to Girl Up, a UN campaign building awareness and funds to foster leadership in young women around the world.
"Three weeks after Nelson Mandela got out [of prison in South Africa], Robert De Niro and I brought him to the Tribeca Film Festival, and we thought he would talk about politics, but instead he said that on Thursday nights at Robben Island, the one thing he did was watch movies," Harvey Weinstein said last night before the Cinema Society's screening of Mandela: Long Walk to Freedom. "He talked about Eddie Murphy's films, Bob De Niro's films, Oliver Stone's movies, some of my movies—it was the most incredible thing for those of us in the industry, and I have never forgotten the story about Thursday nights."
Weinstein was joined at the Ziegfeld Theater by his cohosts for the Burberry-sponsored evening, U2 (who unveiled their first new material in three years, a song called "Ordinary Love," for the film) and Anna Wintour; the film's stars, Idris Elba and Naomie Harris; as well as Mandela's daughter, ambassador Zenani Mandela-Dlamini.
"This man, also known as Dad, really turned our life upside down, or right-side-up rather," said Bono. "We have been working for him since we were teenagers, so we just didn't want to blow it. Our song is a complicated love song about a very complicated story." Elba, who plays Mandela, didn't have the good fortune of meeting the world leader. "I watched his body language and how people reacted to him, and that's how I learned about his essence," said the actor, who was in Burberry. "Also, I learned he was very choosy about the types of suits he wore—they made almost five hundred different suits for me for the film."